Navigating Rome’s crowded gelatoscape can be a fun challenge, with fans of different trendy geletarie such Fatamorgana or Otaleg arguing over who has the choicest fruit, the most creative technique, the most lab-like decor. Among the places that sparked the city’s artisanal ice cream revolution was Gracchi, a pint-size parlor in the tony district of Prati near the Vatican. It was founded in 1999 by Alberto Manassei, a former liutaio (a string instrument maker) and a jazz fan who hails from Sardinia. 

Now with three small outlets including a central shop by Piazza del Popolo, Gracchi remains uncompromising and purist. It eschews hip outré conceits (no cacio e pepe or Lapsan Suchang scoops here) in favor of creamy textures and elegant neo-classical flavor combos like pear with caramel or mela canela, a super apple-y treat with pine nuts and cinnamon. 

Whether it’s fragrant wild strawberries or tart Dragon Blood plums, the fruit flavors here are vibrant and seasonal. But among connoisseurs, Gracchi is known for its voluptuous treats based on pedigreed nuts—Bronte pistachios, Avila almonds—and for its chocolate frozen sensations crafted from pure cacao fondant (not the usual cocoa powder) and spiked with orange or rum.  

Besides gelato there are refreshing granitas in flavors like basil and ginger, as well as shiny chocolate-covered frozen bonbons called cremini (try the ricotta and pear).